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TAILORING (FASH448/848)
COURSE DESCRIPTION A laboratory course which emphasizes the comparison of couture and mass production tailoring methods, selection of fabrics, product standards, and fit. Processes specific to womenswear and menswear are implemented. Prerequisite: FASH 243 Advanced Apparel Construction
COURSE OBJECTIVES Through readings, class discussion, and laboratory experience the student will be able to:
· utilize custom tailoring methods and quick tailoring methods in the construction of both a woman's and man's notch collar jacket or coat.
· name and describe the parts of the notch collar jacket or coat
· identify and demonstrate the hand stitches used in shaping and construction of the custom tailored jacket or coat.
· determine and demonstrate the techniques for achieving a properly fitted jacket or coat.
· identify criteria for selection and purpose of underlining and its application.
· identify criteria for selection and use of canvas interfacing and demonstrate application of interfacing to fashion fabric.
· demonstrate construction methods of closures and determine appropriate use of each.
· identify and construct tailored welt pocket samples.
· explain purposes of twill tape and demonstrate application in custom tailoring.
· demonstrate the notch collar construction and explain how it differs from the set-in collar construction.
· construct and state the purposes of sleeve ease, sleeve heads, and shoulder pads.
· determine and demonstrate the proper techniques and equipment for pressing the custom tailored jacket or coat.
· identify criteria for selection and use of lining and demonstrate the hand application of lining in the custom tailored garment.
· discover finishing details and demonstrate their construction application.
· evaluate construction techniques and materials in terms of quality, monetary cost and time involved for both self-constructed garments and ready-to-wear garments.
· identify and explain differences in construction and materials between women's wear and men's wear for both jackets and pants.
· demonstrate application of felt undercollar on a man's jacket.
· identify and state criteria for use of the various fusible interfacings available for quick tailoring methods.
· demonstrate preparation and application of fusible interfacing and twill tape to the quick tailored notch collar jacket or coat.
· compare custom tailoring methods to quick tailoring methods in terms of time, cost, and appearance.
TEXTS Required: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing Reference: Flat Pattern text Men's Outerwear Design. Masaaki Kawashima Fundamentals of Men's Fashion Design: A Guide toTailored Clothes. Masaaki Kawashima
EQUIPMENT
REQUIREMENTS AND GRADING
40% Project #1. Construction of a womenswear jacket or menswear coat using custom hand tailoring techniques. 25% Project #2. Construction of a jacket using quick tailoring techniques, fusible interfacings, menswear notch-collar construction methods and hand worked buttonhole. 10% Comparison Report or self-made jacket pattern. 5% Samples: Bound Buttonholes (corded, 2-piece windowpane, and Dritz) Pockets (welt, and arment sample) Menswear (waistband construction) 20% Final exam
100% TOTAL
CLASS GUIDELINES 1. The successful completion of projects WILL REQUIRE SIGNIFICANT WORK TIME BEYOND THE SCHEDULED CLASS TIME. 2. Work on the projects and samples must be checked and approved at each stage of construction. Students may work on projects at home with instructor's permission. 3. CLASS ATTENDANCE AND PARTICIPATION IS REQUIRED and will be evaluated for each project. Being late to class and discussing irrelevant topics during laboratory work sessions is unprofessional. 4. All homework, assignments and projects are due on the date and time listed on the syllabus. Items submitted after the specified time will lose one-third letter grade on that day and will lose an additional one-third letter grade for each additional day late including weekends and non-scheduled class days (e.g. a grade of B+ will drop to B on first day late, B- for second day late, and so on ). Arrangements for handing in late items due to a valid reason such as serious illness, must be approved prior to the due date and be accompanied by a doctor's note or verification. 5. You may work in the Design Studio whenever it is not being used for a class. Please clean up your work area and return all equipment to its proper storage area before leaving. 6. To prevent soiling students' design project fabrics, food and beverages are prohibited in the Design Studio. Please keep water, wet raincoats and umbrellas off the tables.
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